Rare Henry Steig Sterling Silver Abstract Modernist Studio Cuff Bracelet Circa 1950s

Measurements: 2.6"W x 2"D (6.60cm x 5.08cm) Face: 1.25"W (3.18cm)

Inner Circumference: 5.5"R + 1.5" Gap (13.97 + 3.81cm)

Total Inner Circumference: 7"R (17.78cm)

Marks: Steig Sterling

Weight: 34g

Exceptional circa-1950s handwrought sterling silver cuff bracelet by noted American modernist jeweler Henry Steig.

This substantial 34 gram cuff is a superb example of Steig’s sculptural approach to jewelry, combining broad flattened silver forms with sweeping raised bars that curve across the face of the bracelet. The deeply oxidized central field creates dramatic contrast against the highly polished sterling framework, emphasizing the bracelet’s layered construction and giving the design remarkable depth and movement.

The composition is both geometric and biomorphic — a hallmark of Steig’s work during the 1950s. Rather than relying on applied decoration, the bracelet derives its visual impact from line, negative space, proportion and the interaction between bright polished silver and the dark recessed center.

The wide 1.25" face gives the cuff strong presence on the wrist while the open construction keeps the design visually balanced and distinctly modern.

Signed STEIG STERLING.

The bracelet has been professionally polished and is in excellent vintage condition. Because the sterling has a highly reflective mirror finish, darker lines or irregular areas visible in photographs may be reflections rather than surface flaws.

Steig was born in 1906 in New York City and grew up in the Bronx. He studied at CCNY and the National Academy of Design. After stints as a musician, cartoonist, writer, and photography, he decided in the late 40s to make jewelry. He took a few evening classes but was mostly self-taught, and within a year was selling jewelry from his West 9th Street apartment. In 1950 he opened a New York City shop in Greenwich Village, where there was several talented craftsmen who already had established shops. Among them were Sam Kramer, Frank Miraglia, Frank Rebajes, George Salo, Paul Voltaire, Ed Weiner, Bill Tendler, Art Smith and Paul Lobel. Basically the whos who of the American modernist movement. 

In 1953 he moved his NYC shop to 52nd and Lexington. A memorable piece of Steig history is his connection to the famous 1954 white-dress scene with Marilyn Monroe and the movie The Seven Year Itch: period photographs show the scene unfolding directly in front of his New York storefront, with the HENRY STEIG sign visible above the entrance. See the last photo. Steig closed the New York store in 1963 and moved to Provincetown with his wife Mimi. In 1972 he sold his designs and the shop to a Chicago jeweler, Jan Dee, and died a year later. He worked mostly with silver in his early years, but focused on gold later in his life. Many people in the arts came to Henry Steig’s shops. His son, Michael remembers that Ella Fitzgerald and Elizabeth Taylor were among the celebrities who purchased Steig jewelry. He also remembers seeing Edward G. Robinson in the Provincetown shop.