Rare Henry Steig Sterling Silver Sculptural Modernist Cuff Bracelet Circa 1950s

Measurements: Inner Circumference: 5.5"R + 1.25" Gap (13.97 + 3.18cm)

Total Inner Circumference: 6.75"R (17.15cm)

Face: 1.55"W x .25"H (3.94cm x .64cm)

Marks: Henry Steig Sterling

Weight: 52.2g

Exceptional circa-1950s sterling silver cuff bracelet by important American modernist jeweler Henry Steig.

This remarkably substantial 52.2 gram cuff is constructed from broad overlapping planes of sterling silver that sweep across the wrist in a strong, architectural composition. A raised diagonal bar follows the contour of the bracelet’s face, creating a dramatic layered effect and emphasizing the interplay between positive and negative space, line, volume and movement.

The wide sculptural front gradually transitions into the open cuff form at the back, giving the bracelet significant visual presence while remaining beautifully balanced on the wrist. Its simplicity is deceptive: rather than relying on surface decoration, Steig creates the design entirely through the manipulation of silver sheet, proportion and three-dimensional structure.

The broad surfaces retain a softly reflective finish with areas of natural patina, highlighting the handwrought character of the piece and giving additional depth to the recessed areas.

Signed HENRY STEIG STERLING.

Excellent vintage condition with minor surface wear consistent with age. The bracelet has been lightly cleaned while retaining attractive original patina. The broad sterling surfaces are semi-glossy and highly reflective, so darker lines or spots visible in photographs may be reflections rather than flaws.

A superb collector’s example of American mid-century modernist studio jewelry and an especially substantial surviving Henry Steig cuff.

Steig was born in 1906 in New York City and grew up in the Bronx. He studied at CCNY and the National Academy of Design. After stints as a musician, cartoonist, writer, and photography, he decided in the late 40s to make jewelry. He took a few evening classes but was mostly self-taught, and within a year was selling jewelry from his West 9th Street apartment. In 1950 he opened a New York City shop in Greenwich Village, where there was several talented craftsmen who already had established shops. Among them were Sam Kramer, Frank Miraglia, Frank Rebajes, George Salo, Paul Voltaire, Ed Weiner, Bill Tendler, Art Smith and Paul Lobel. Basically the who's who of the American modernist movement. 

In 1953 he moved his NYC shop to 52nd and Lexington. A memorable piece of Steig history is his connection to the famous 1954 white-dress scene with Marilyn Monroe and the movie The Seven Year Itch: period photographs show the scene unfolding directly in front of his New York storefront, with the HENRY STEIG sign visible above the entrance. See the last photo. Steig closed the New York store in 1963 and moved to Provincetown with his wife Mimi. In 1972 he sold his designs and the shop to a Chicago jeweler, Jan Dee, and died a year later. He worked mostly with silver in his early years, but focused on gold later in his life. Many people in the arts came to Henry Steig’s shops. His son, Michael remembers that Ella Fitzgerald and Elizabeth Taylor were among the celebrities who purchased Steig jewelry. He also remembers seeing Edward G. Robinson in the Provincetown shop.