Rare Sam Kramer Sterling Silver Moonstone Modernist Brooch & Earrings Demi-Parure Suite Circa 1950s

Measurements: Brooch: 1.5"R x .5"Thick (3.81cm x 1.27cm)

Earrings: .75"H x .75"W x .25"Thick (1.91cm x 1.91cm x .64cm)

Markings: Sterling & the Kramer Mushroom Hallmark

Weight: 27.4g

A rare and exceptional mid-century sterling silver and moonstone demi-parure by Sam Kramer, one of the most important and unconventional figures of the American studio-jewelry and wearable-art movement. Dating to approximately the 1950s, this remarkable matched ensemble consists of a sculptural brooch and coordinating earrings, all bearing Kramer’s distinctive mushroom maker’s mark.

The brooch is constructed around a broad circular sterling silver disc, its restrained geometry dramatically interrupted by a sculptural central composition of curled and folded silver forms surrounding a luminous bezel-set moonstone. The cool iridescence of the stone provides a striking contrast to the oxidized recesses and bright polished surfaces of the silver, creating the mysterious, almost surreal quality for which Kramer’s jewelry is celebrated.

The matching earrings repeat the same visual vocabulary on a smaller scale, with folded ribbon-like sterling elements curling around darkened recesses and softly glowing cabochons. Together, the three pieces form a cohesive and extraordinarily rare demi-parure rather than simply a collection of coordinating jewelry.

The brooch measures approximately 1.5 inches in diameter, while the earrings measure approximately 0.75 inch square. The complete ensemble weighs a substantial 27.4 grams.

Each piece is marked STERLING together with Sam Kramer’s recognizable mushroom hallmark.

The earrings have been professionally converted to pierced-post construction and fitted with new sterling silver backs for contemporary wear. The set has received only a light cleaning and polish, preserving the intentional oxidation and sculptural character of the original design. All three pieces remain in exceptional vintage condition with no noted structural damage or significant scratching.

A converter is included so the brooch may also be worn as a pendant.

Sam Kramer (1913/14–1964) was among the most inventive and idiosyncratic American studio jewelers of the mid-20th century. Working from his Greenwich Village studio, Kramer developed a highly personal vocabulary of biomorphic, surreal and often mysterious forms, incorporating unusual gemstones, found objects and dramatically oxidized sterling silver. His work was informed by his study of historic and Indigenous jewelry traditions, including Navajo and other Native American work, as well as travels to Mexico and Europe. Rather than treating gemstones merely as decoration, Kramer often made them integral structural and symbolic elements of the composition. His jewelry is now recognized as an important expression of the American wearable-art movement and is documented in major reference works including Marbeth Schon’s Modernist Jewelry 1930–1960: The Wearable Art Movement.

The final photograph reproduces a page from Schon’s book illustrating documented examples of Kramer’s work and historical valuations, further placing this demi-parure within the broader context of his celebrated studio practice.

A truly exceptional opportunity to acquire a complete matched Sam Kramer moonstone demi-parure—the kind of ensemble that appears far less frequently than individual rings, brooches or earrings.